The Wavezone

Let me begin by explaining the title, "playing in the wavezone." The wavezone is the place where the ocean and land meet. At every beach this meeting is announced through the breaking waves. Since each wave is unique, each meeting is too. As a surfing riding these waves I am participating in the meeting of these two great forces--land and ocean. But as we all know, waves come from great winds. Not only that, wind is ever present when we are at the beach, even in its absence.

In this way to surfing is to play in the nexus of wind, water and land. But that's not all, to play in the wavezone is to interact with a myriad of life forms in water, on land and in the air. This zone is one of the most creative, dynamic, and beautiful places on earth. And for me to play in this zone is one of the greatest gifts imaginable.

Don't misunderstand me, to play in this zone is not always safe or comfortable or even fun. Especially where I surf. Sometimes it is all about making out and making it back in. So to play in the wavezone is the opportunity and privilege to be deeply immersed and engaged in life in one of the most exalted, dynamic and creative expression of it. And for that I am eternally grateful.